It’s withered and covered in a perpetual coating of coal dust. It is nestled deep in the bosom of the Appalachian Mountains; isolated and not particularly sophisticated. But, if you’re lucky enough to ever see the fog cascade down East River Mountain like rolling white waves you will know that you have witnessed nature’s truest majesty firsthand.
Like much of small town America, Bluefield, WV is a shell of its once booming self. The powerful trains that once chugged and whistled as they carried coal to light America get plenty of rest nowadays. The opioid epidemic has hit this little pocket of the world particularly hard and sometimes a local politician makes national news for saying derogatory, inflammatory and utterly ridiculous statements about the LGBQT community.
For years, I avoided and demonized my hometown. My secrets and shame lived there, burrowed into the dusty hollers and unable to escape over the looming mountains. The smallness made it seem like a white hot spotlight followed me around illuminating the dysfunction, addiction and criminality that surrounded my family.
I found fiery fault with Bluefield until I slowly began to realize that the the place where I grew up wasn’t to blame, it was simply the setting. My mom and dad would have been the same wild, felonious, fighting, screaming drug-addicted people in Los Angeles or Chicago or Manhattan. Had I been born and raised in the farm lands of the midwest or the rocky shores of the northeast or the bayou of the gulf, I would have still chugged Natural Lights and made out with boys until I felt awful about myself in an ill-fated attempt to fit in.
What may not have been the same had the geography lottery that kids are entered into pinned me somewhere else in the world is how I ended up.
West Virginians are a prideful people. We have been knocked-down and slapped around since our courageous birth in 1863. It has caused us to band together and if you come for one of us, you come for all 1.8 million residents as well as all of the ex-pats. I promise you that we’ve heard all the toothless, barefoot and incestuous jokes, but what we find really funny is that the people calling us ignorant hillbillies are the same ones who don’t seem to know that there are fifty states (Virginia was the 10th state and West Virginia, once it seceded from Virginia, became the 35th state).
The children of our Mountain Mama want all of our brothers and sisters to succeed. We relish an opportunity to tell others about Jerry West and Chuck Yeager and Mary Lou Retton and even Joyce DeWitt. And, although I may not have been the person to first break the speed of sound or the first American woman to win the all-around gold medal in the Olympics, I do lead a happy, successful life.
Now, I know that not only was Bluefield not a blood thirsty monster out to gobble me up, but rather the place that is affectionally called “Nature’s Air Conditioned City” is responsible for much of my success. More specifically, I am forever indebted to the public school teachers of Bluefield. These tireless, dedicated intelligent educators gave this sorrowful, free-lunch kid knowledge, but more than that they gave me hope. Hope that I didn’t have to listen to the statistics that told me that I too would be a drug-addicted, high school drop out as my parents before me.
My teachers, Mrs. Steorts and Mr. Bourne, cultivated my love of writing. They introduced me to Dickens and Salinger and Morrison. They pushed me, they believed in me when I dared them to do anything but…and, somewhere along the way I started believing in myself a little.
And, without my guidance counselor, Mrs. Dodson, who secretly nominated me for a scholarship to West Virginia University, I would still be paying off student loans – if I would have even made it to college.
Last week, the teachers in all 55 counties of West Virginia went on strike over a new bill that would create a path for charter schools and private school vouchers. Although the bill would have raised pay for teachers and provide increased educational funding, the teacher’s union rejected it.
Teachers in one of the poorest states in the country were so worried about the detrimental effect this bill would have on students that they rejected a pay raise. They did it for the students and along the way taught us all about integrity and standing up for what and who you believe in.
Bluefield may be a small, it may have it struggles, but ask any Bluefieldian and they will tell you that the best hot dogs in the known world are found at the Dairy Queen on Cumberland Road. And, if you find yourself emerging from the East River Tunnel on a late August Friday night, when the air is just beginning to cool, roll down your window and listen closely to the sounds of the Beaver/Graham game, an event that is not simply a football game but a combination of cultural phenomenon and religious experience.
I am proud to come from a place where people still bring casseroles when your mama dies and celebrates when the summer sun raises the mountain temperatures above 90 by giving out free lemonade. My hometown, where the fields are blue, taught me that sometimes grit and grind will get you further than class and privilege.
And, that sometimes you just gotta go give ‘em hell.
Photo Credit: Mel Grubb
Absolutely wonderful…..thank you for writing this beautiful story!
Astounding
I grew up in Bluefield and have been gone from there going on 45 years. As I grow older I miss Bluefield and my friends and relatives there. Love to visit, but had to leave 45 years ago because had better opportunities, but hurray for Bluefield and the best hotdogs are on Cumberland Road.
Born and raised in those beautiful mountains, Bluefield being my birth home. I was blessed to see and experience downtown when it was thriving, the homes, buildings, properties, schools kept up in the 60’s, 70’s!! What an amazing era! Just a beautiful, clean town!! Fairview and Wade schools, now gone! Got to experience the building of East River Tunnel and Bluefield High School! Such precious, priceless memories of family, friends, classmates and life! I’m proud to be called a hillbilly! Alot of hard working, Christian people live there! That hard life made some strong survivors, me being one! Thank you for your article! Truly touched my heart!
Thank you. I am laughing through tears and crying through laughter. My restful place will forever be Bluefield, no matter how far I go or how long I have been gone.
What a nice tribute to a great place to grow up. I have many fond memories of Bluefield. No family left there now, but I still stop for the Dairy Queen hot dogs!
This made me swell with emotions from the beginning to the end. Love, pride, sorrow, admiration, and longing for others to see our state like we do. Thank you Sosha for once again letting your pen spread the truth.
This resonates with me in a somewhat different way, because I was a newcomer to Bluefield. I spent most of my childhood in suburban Maryland, and then in 1974 my family pulled up stakes and relocated to Bluefield. I had just started 10th grade, not a good time in a teenager’s life to go through such a culture shock. And YET, there is a warm spot in my heart for Bluefield. Thanks to Facebook I’ve been able to maintain contact with a lot of old classmates that would have otherwise disappeared from my view. I make an effort to attend the annual football rivalry been Bluefield High School and Graham High School (in neighboring Bluefield, Virginia), and it’s about as juicy a slice of pure Americana as you’re likely to find, the REAL “Friday Night Lights.” Yes, the town has seen far better days. Hell, it was headline news when a Tudor’s Biscuit World opened at an old Wendy’s location. it’s really more of a bedroom community these days than anything else, the Shott family continues to keep the local media under its thumb, and it’s always dismaying when a local political figure like Eric Porterfield gives the state a much undeserved black eye. And yet my fondness for Bluefield never seems to diminish. Go figure.
Well said Karen.
My sister, 26 years older than I, raised her 6 children in Bluefield. Five of them, also older than I, seem so sophisticated to a little coal camp girl who lived deeper in the “hollers” than they did. I thought Bluefield was such a big city — and I love it still today. I loved their home on the Old Airport Road, the drive-in movie theater where I had my first car date as a freshman at Concord College, and so many more good memories.
I was born at St Lukes hospital Bluefield WVA, my father was a fireman and my mother was manager of the S&H green stamp store. I lived on alder st, went to Wade school then Beaver Hi. I left Bluefield in 1961 . I’ve traveled all around but I still miss Bluefield.I now live in St Petersburg Florida but there is no place like the mountains Carol Ritter Rozelle
beautiful story about my town, and yes, I go to Dairy Queen often and enjoy a hotdog..